超過十萬座十字架，堆起來就像一座山。在立陶宛小鎮Šiauliai，十字架山遠近馳名。其實十字架山不在小鎮上，要過去需要搭公車，在市中心公車站的十二號月台往Joniškis方向，時刻表可在巴士站索取，下車後約要再走2公里路左右。
Tens of thousands of crosses pile up as a hill. Šiauliai, a small town in Lithuania, is famous for the Hill of Crosses. In fact, the hill is not located in the town but 12 km away from the town. Travelers will need to take the bus bound for Joniškis and get off at Domantai. From there, you walk 2 km to the hill.
※住宿推薦
[旅行] 立陶宛 Šiauliai 超值住宿 Litrada Apartments
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| The way to Hill of Crosses |
那天我沒有安排什麼行程，小鎮上也沒什麼好逛，只有一間商場。一大早就搭上公車，司機雖然不會說英文，但是看到遊客就比了個十字，我們點頭，他便好心的提醒我們下車。下了車之後，沿著指示還要走兩公里，幸好沿路沒什麼車，又有大樹，像是在健行。
I didn't have any plans that day in Šiauliai. The city was small and there was only one shopping mall. I took the bus to hill of crosses in the morning. Though the driver didn't know English, he made a cross with his fingers when he saw us and we replied with a nod. He then reminded us to get off when we arrived at Domantai. After we got off, there were signs along the way that guide us to the Hill of Crosses. The were few cars on the roads, and the 2 km to our destination was like hiking.
遠遠的看到了十字架堆，但遠看無法感受到壯觀，不過可以先看到旅遊中心，中心內有紀念品和自動販賣機，雖然幾乎全世界的景點都有，但因為這裡的物價真的比瑞典低太多了，我們忍不住買了一些。等到愈走愈近，就能感受到十萬座十字架的壯觀。十字架山的源起有很多說法。據說一開始是有人放了幾座十字架紀念1831年起義義士的犧牲，爾後，愈來愈多人來放上十字架，到了1990年已經有55,000座，如今更達十萬座。
On the way to the hill, I can see the pile of crosses from a distance, but could not feel the magnificence until I reached it. However, I saw the tourist information center on the way and it sold some typical tourist stuff. The price in Lithuania was much lower than in Sweden, so I purchased some souvenirs.
The origin of the Hill of Crosses is debated. Some say there were first some crosses to memorize the uprising during 1831. From then on, more and more people come to place crosses. To 1990, there were 55,000 crosses and until now, there are over 100,000.
立陶宛，乃至於波羅地海三小國，和台灣一般，都是命運多舛的國度。波羅地海三小國在蘇聯垮台前，都活在鐵幕之中，反抗軍是游擊隊，而對手是強大的蘇聯，從來就不會有勝算，就像台灣過去反抗任何統治者般。在冬至的早晨，沒有什麼遊客，我的眼前、四周、腳邊都是滿滿的十字架，有的十字架上，還掛著小十字架，上面也插了小小十字架。那天是難得的晴天，風不大，卻有些寒冷，在十字架山的最中央，有個播放不知名樂曲的錄音機，或許是聖歌，就像我們播放佛經一樣，但我聽來並沒有感受到平靜，只有無限淒涼。
Lithuania, like the other Baltic countries and like Taiwan, was ill-fated in history. The Baltic Nations were under the iron curtain before the Soviet Union collapsed. Facing such tense oppression, the rebels could never win. I visited the Hill of Crosses during the morning of winter solstice. There were barely any tourists. Surrounding me were only crosses, a massive number of crosses. Some Large crosses have small ones hung on them or standing on them. The weather that day was nice and the wind was mild, but I felt a bit chilly. In the middle of the hill, there was a recorder playing a anonymous song that sounded like a hymn. The song was meant to be peaceful, but I only had a strong feeling of desolation.
十字架山不同於歷史博物館，很多十字架沒有記載、沒有年代也沒有碑文。留下十字架的人沒有簽名，無法現身說法，更別說留下錄影檔。沒有權威的學者在旁留下他的分析或論述。留下十字架是太私人的情感，遊客無從猜測動機。你無法知道你眼前的十字架是紀念什麼、祈求什麼，或者很多時候，可能只是遊客的到此一遊。沒錯，旁邊有三個小攤販，一個小的十字架才10元台幣，任何人都可以買一個插在山上。任何人都可以去堆積那座山，當然，你不需要門票就能進入這座山。
Unlike museums, the hill of crosses lack historical records for the crosses. Those who left the crosses there did not sign nor could they come and say anything about there purpose. There were no guides or scholars that could analyze or explain. Maybe leaving a cross was too personal and emotional for tourists to understand. Was it for memorization? Was it for prayers? Was it for fun? Yeah, for fun. It costs less than one dollar to but a cross from one of the vendors beside to hill. Anyone can be one of the creators of the hill.
冬至特別早天黑，那天晚上，我們趕搭最後一班火車往首都Vilnius。火車站不在市中心，我們在漆黑的夜裡趕路到車站，沿途聖誕市集沒什麼人，我感受不到迎接聖誕節的溫馨，不知道是因為十字架山讓人心情沉重還是天太早黑？或許，也可能只是路邊沒融的雪被人踩得太髒，抑或是我沒有在市集看到可愛的聖誕老人或是麋鹿。
The sky darkened early on winter solstice. That night, we took the last train back to Vilnius. The station was not in the city center and we had to walk on the dark streets to find our way. The Christmas markets on the streets were almost empty. We couldn't feel a bit of warmth for Christmas maybe because of the crosses or because of the darkness. Maybe it was only because the snow on the streets were dirty or because I didn't see any cute reindeers in the markets.
火車站寬敞明亮，旁邊有間小雜貨店，冬至沒有湯圓，我們在那買了微波的披薩和漢堡當晚餐。「火車來了！」先是聽到鐵軌隆隆摩擦聲，往首都Vilnius的火車緩緩進站，是真的很緩慢，車身是深藍的，在深夜裡都看得出褪色嚴重。此時，所有旅客從車站中走出來，在各節車廂的車門前排隊。正當我不明所以，看到每節車廂的門被推開，走出挽著髮髻穿著深藍袍子的奶奶，他們緩緩走下階梯，彷彿來自上個世紀。老奶奶對著車門前排隊的旅客一一驗票，還貼心的問你要茶或咖啡。
The train station was rather bright and spacious. There was a small vendor beside the station. I didn't have traditional rice balls on winter solstice but rather bought some microwave pizza and burgers from the vendor.
"Here comes the train!" I heard the thundering sound from the railroad track. The train bound for Vilnius has slowly arrived. The train was painted blue, but I could tell the color had faded even in the dark. That moment, all the travelers in the station walked out and started lining up in front of each carriage. I was confused at first and then I saw the door in each carriage being opened and there walked out old ladies in long dark blue robes. When they slowly moved down from the stair case, they seem to be walking out from the previous century. Those old ladies started to check the tickets one by one and politely ask if you want tea or coffee.
火車在隆隆聲開走，遠離燈火通明的車站。我睜大眼睛，看向窗外，想看清楚，不過天太黑了，沒有一點燈，不知道究竟是森林還是城市。一幕幕的黑影在我的窗外後退，彷彿快轉的歷史紀錄片無法停格，而我真的懷疑自己是不是坐上開往前蘇聯的火車。會不會我一覺醒來發現自己在西伯利亞？那裏還有勞改營嗎？
The train slowly left the station with a roaring sound. I tried to look out the window, but it was too dark. Without any light, I couldn't tell whether we were passing by a forest or a city. Darkness beside me was moving backwards at a fast pace. It felt like a non-stop fast-forward history documentary and I really doubt if I was on the train to the Soviet Union. Will I end up in Siberia after I wake up? Are there still labor camps?
我沒有尖叫。兩個小時後，我抵達了Vilnius。踩在骯髒的雪上，寒風颯颯。在接近午夜裡，我遇到了熱情的民宿主人，住進了溫馨又平價的旅店，一夜好眠。
We did not scream. Two hours later, we arrived at Vilnius. Walking on the dirty snow, the wind was howling. We met our hostel host near midnight and we arrived at a cozy room. We had a good night's sleep.
後記：十字架山真的是我心中數一數二的景點。他有歷史感，卻不是歷史博物館。他有藝術感，卻不是美術館。他是人造的，卻不屬於任何人，但又屬於所有人。有點悲傷，卻很壯觀。
The Hill of crosses was one of my favorite sights. It was historical but was not a history museum. It was artistic but not an art museum. It was man made, but it does not belong to anyone. It belongs to everyone. It brought sorrow but it was also magnificent.
