[旅行] 北極圈聖誕假期 特羅姆瑟 Tromso

Tromso，北緯六十九點五度，在極圈內，拜海洋調節所賜，人口有七萬人，說她是北極之都也不為過。這是聖誕假期極圈巡禮的最後一站，也是這次行程中最美、最大的城市。這裡沒有麥當勞，卻有全世界最北，大概也最貴的漢堡王。挪威的物價，就算閉著眼睛假裝那是台幣，我還是買不下手。幸好，友善文明的挪威人讓我們很幸運地找到Couchsurf，省下兩三晚的住宿錢，而沙發衝浪，絕對不只是錢。

我們的沙發主人是位學法律的牧師，對於政治、經濟和社會有著獨到的見解。熱情的他因為要接送女兒算是順路，竟然從Narvik一路載我們到Tromso。因為他是牧師，有教堂的鑰匙，他帶著我們夜訪教堂。因為他學法律也熱中政治，他對我們振振有詞地分析幾年前震驚世界的挪威掃射事件的看法，他甚至提到那個出事的夏令營他過去也有參加過。在台灣人眼中，他是個十足左派，在北歐世界中，我猜這樣的政治觀點算是普遍。他贊成移民、反對死刑、贊成重稅與均富、反對財團壟斷。他像許多歐洲人一樣喜歡去酒吧，或許在那個高緯度、天氣嚴寒又沒有什麼娛樂的地方，唯一能紓解壓力的也只有酒精。

Tromso整體而言沒有典型歐洲城市的華麗，也沒有典型北歐小城市的無聊，說美，Tromso很美，卻不太歐式，反而比較像是北歐極簡風貫徹整座城市。由於我造訪時是冬天，那裏緯度又高，每天太陽十點才升起，下午兩點就下山，時常分不清究竟是下午還是晚上。

Tromso景點不多，特別推薦去參加Tromso Individuell的峽灣行程。我們當初會參加是因為原本要報名的行程臨時被取消，無奈之下選擇沒有評價也比較貴的Tromso Individuell。導遊是位原本在德國當計程車司機的大媽，因緣際會(或說神的安排，因為她是虔誠基督徒)之下來到這個北極之都，當起了導遊。旅遊的人數通常不多，因為車也不大，但是她非常盡心盡力的講解，也很照顧每個人。由於她對當地相當熟悉，甚至可以帶我們去許多私人景點。例如當天早上趁著天還亮看完峽灣，下午已經天黑，她就帶我們去她朋友開的鬆餅店吃鬆餅喝茶，另外還帶我們看一些古時留下的岩壁雕刻。我在九月時曾經到挪威看過壯麗的峽灣，然而冬日看北方峽灣完全是不同風情。另外，由於鯨魚會到峽灣內捕食，因次我們還聽到了鯨魚的聲音，但只聞其聲沒有看到鯨魚本尊。

參考 [旅行] 挪威縮影四日行 9/5-8 Norway Sep. 5-8, 2013

除了峽灣之外，我們還有參加追極光的行程，當天晚上夜空晴朗，連最暗的星都看的見，卻仍然沒有等到極光。

雖然無幸見到極光，我們倒是造訪了一些Tromso的景點。首先推薦Polaria，是個水族館，外觀像是一本本的書堆疊在一起，裡面則介紹了不少水生動物。我對於生物不內行，卻非常欣賞其外觀建築。

另外，我也推薦去Artic Cathedral北極大教堂，一樣是個非常有設計感的教堂，完全別於歐洲經典中古世紀教堂的古樸宏偉。

若想多了解極地生活，可以參觀The Polar Museum，雖然不大，卻對極地的介紹相當完整，可以了解過去在這裡的人如何在極地生活，並且多了解極地生物。

Tromso這個充滿小山丘的城市有纜車，晚上若想欣賞夜景可以去搭。可惜我去的時候適逢大霧，只能在旁邊堆雪人排遣無聊。

離開Tromso那天是個大清早，幾乎每天都跟我們聊天到半夜的Host聽到我們要自己搭公車去堅持要開車送我們，還授權我們早上用各種方法把他叫醒。很感動，浪跡到了天涯，還是處處有溫情。這是我第二次造訪挪威，我想，有朝一日，我還會再去一次，為了極光，也為了比極光還美麗的人。

Merry Xmas Milk Boxes

相關閱讀
[旅行] 北極圈聖誕假期 基律納 Kiruna
[旅行] 國境之北 芬蘭 羅凡涅米 Rovaniemi, Finland Jan. 15-17, 2014
[旅行] Ice Music----Concert in Igloo

[旅行] 北極圈聖誕假期 基律納 Kiruna

Christmas Break Itinerary 行程大綱
Uppsala  →(by train) → Kiruna  →(by train) → Abisqo  →(by train) → Narviq  →(by bus, but CS host came to pick us up) → Tromso → (Flight back to Uppsala)

基律納，瑞典在北極圈內的城市，過去以鐵礦聞名，而對於觀光客來說，近年的冰旅館(Ice Hotel)則是不能錯過的景點。從南部上來的話通常都得搭隔夜火車，我當時造訪適逢聖誕假期，火車坐得滿滿的。然而瑞典國鐵(SJ)在冬天特別容易延遲，當時我們就是因為積雪，整個列車大改道，本來要換車變成不用，但是卻在某個地方枯等了好幾個小時。就這樣，我們的行程大幅耽擱。一翻折騰，終於抵達我們的目的Kiruna，-16度，還好，比想像中暖一些。

Kiruna, a city in the Arctic circle, used to prosper because of its iron mine. For visitors, it is the Ice Hotel that makes this city so special. If you come to Kiruna from a southern city in Sweden, mostly you will come by an overnight train. When we visited Kiruna, it was during the Christmas break so the train was packed with passengers. The Swedish railroad (SJ) often delays in winter due to heavy snow. Our train was delayed for couple of hours. Because of the delay, our travel plans had to be changed. The journey to Kiruna was exhausting but we finally made it there. It was -16 degrees, warmer than what we had thought.

Kiruna Itinerary
Ice Hotel Tour → Dog Sledding Tour
Skiing Lesson → LKAB (iron mine) Tour

因為是聖誕節假期，雖然觀光業理論上還是會營業，但各種交通工具和店家非常有可能不開門。第一天是平安夜，由於我們第一站是要去冰旅館，事先也問過到那邊的巴士當天的班次，然而到了巴士站乾等發現根本沒有公車。幾番確認之後，才驚覺當天根本不會有公車到那！雖然內心憤怒，但還是只能緊急應變。我們先回到市中心，想著為了晚上的Dog Sled Tour要領點現金，到了ATM卻發現難不成連ATM都放假？很多台ATM都故障了，我們無可奈何之下到超市採買了一些食物順便Cash Back，幸好可行，接著便準備找餐廳吃午餐。前面提過，因為當天是聖誕節，因此很多餐廳沒開，我們在天寒地凍中找了好久，最後決定回到超市，卻發現超市居然關門了！唉，怪我們剛剛急著領錢太大意，超市今天只開到中午。最後在這種沒錢沒食物零下氣溫快斷糧的狀態下，我們好不容易找到間開張的Kebab店果腹。

Because it is Christmas break, people in the tourism industry should be still working. This is Sweden, however, so all transportation or shops could be closed. The first day we arrived was Christmas eve and the first stop we were going was the Ice Hotel. We inquired the bus company in advance and they told us that the bus should be operating on a weekend schedule, but we found out at last that the bus would not come that day. We were furious, but we could only go back to the city center first and get some cash for our dog sled tour at night while figuring our what to do. The ATM, however, seemed to be also on vacation. We tried many and they didn't work. We had no other means but to go to the supermarket and get cash back while getting some food. We were lucky enough to buy some food in the supermarket and find a kebab restaurant for our starving stomachs.

沒有公車到Ice Hotel，我們只能自己想辦法，而當時唯一的辦法就是搭計程車。就這樣，在這個物價比台灣貴五倍的國度，我第一次搭了計程車。不太久，我們到了冰旅館。在冰旅館的導覽開始前，我們先走到附近的一間木造老教堂Jukkasjärvi kyrka，當時以夜幕低垂，教堂關閉，只能在微微的燈光中想像木造教堂的風采。在寒夜裡，我們離開木教堂，回到冰旅館。我第一次聽到冰旅館，是在暑假的瑞典文課。當時的老師說，他每個瑞典朋友都沒去過，他的每個學生都去過了。冰旅館是個每年都長的不一樣的旅館，沒錯，因為她每年冬天建成，春天就付諸流水，待隔年冬天又是另一番風貌。旅館該有的她一應俱全，從房間、酒吧到教堂冰旅館都有，而且幾乎都是冰製成，沒有其他建材輔助。所有的顏色都是冰後打燈而非染色，因為那裏的冰來自附近純淨的河水，而沒有必要為了建造旅館汙染河川。客人晚上就是睡在冰屋裡，每個房間獨一無二，下午開放參觀晚上休息用。而人就睡在冰上，不過你有個睡袋，而那個睡袋據睡過的人說出乎意料的保暖。不過我實在對於-5度以下的旅館沒太大興趣，況且住一晚不便宜，因此拍照留念即可。而讓我們頭痛的交通問題，則是在連絡Dog Sled Tour之後由Tour的人來接送解決。

Since there were no buses to the Ice Hotel so the only way we could get there is by taxi. That was how I first ever got on a taxi in Sweden, a country which price levels is five times more expensive than mine. We got there in 30 minutes and we decided to sign up for a tour in the Ice hotel. There was some time left before the tour started, so we decided to visit a wooden church called Jukkasjärvi kyrka. It was already evening when we arrived, so the church was closed, and we could only see it from the dim light in the darkness. We walked back to the Ice Hotel in the chilly winter wind. The first time I heard about the Ice Hotel is in the Swedish class in summer. My Swedish teacher said none of his Swedish friend has ever visited the Ice Hotel but all of his students have been there. The Ice Hotel looks different every year because it is built from the winter ice and it melts into the river in spring. Everything in the hotel is made of ice, including the rooms, the bar and the chapel. The colors are lights because they do not want to pollute the water with chemical colors. Guests in the hotel live in rooms, like igloos, and every room is unique in design. They sleep on ice beds, but they get a cozy sleeping bag, which made them feel warmer than they originally imagined. Still, I was not interested in staying in a -5 degrees hotel, so taking a tour was enough. After our visit, we contacted the dog sled tour to pick us up.

Dog Sled Tour分為早上和晚上，我們選擇晚上是因為可能可以看到極光，但是不幸沒有遇到。晚上氣溫真的非常非常的低。當時除了包緊，幾乎沒有別的選擇，而且包緊還是覺得寒風刺骨。但是狗可不這麼覺得。牠們像嗑藥般亢奮，吠個不停。當天由負責人拉著狗，帶我們一路狂奔至大雪中的小屋，在小屋中生火吃三明治之後再狂奔回去。

There are dog sled tours both in the day time and at night. We chose to go at night because we might see the northern lights, but sadly we didn't wee them. It was really really cold at night. The only way to keep warm is to wear A LOT. Despite wearing like an Eskimo, I still felt freezing. The dogs, however, were hyper and kept barking. Under the control of our guide, the dogs dragged our sled all the way to a wooden house in the middle of the forest which is covered with snow. We set up fire and ate sandwich and then went back by dog sled.

第二天聖誕節當日，我們早上去報名初級滑雪課程。第一次，我像是電影或海報上的人一樣，身著重裝，包的緊緊，帥氣的在腳上套上滑雪裝備，準備帥氣的滑雪。但可惜帥氣需要天分加上練習，偏偏我兩者都沒有，只能像是走路般痛苦的練習划行。更別說從山坡上滑下來了！我自然跌倒了，還爬不起來。

The second day was Christmas. In the morning, we took ski course for beginners. Since I have never skied before, it felt like being in a movie poster. I thought I looked cool until I started to fall down. It was so difficult for me to learn to ski instead of walk with my ski shoes.

中午我們再度展開尋找餐廳大戰，千辛萬苦之後我們找到了間泰國菜，果然泰國人不過聖誕節，店裡面高朋滿座，懶的在家裡做聖誕大餐的人還不少。我們當時看到泰國餐館除了主餐外還有沙拉吧，我們實在不想活在斷糧的陰影之下，於是決定多點一份主餐外帶，並順便多帶些沙拉吧走。想到自己不文明的行為覺得非常丟臉，但是為了怕斷糧還是偷偷的打包，這時只見泰國店員過來問我們需不需要塑膠袋！當下真的是又羞愧又感動！我們立刻問他們晚上開到幾點，聽到是八點，立刻決定晚上再來吃！

We had to look for another restaurant that is open on Christmas day so that we could get lunch. Luckily, we found this Thai food restaurant. Since we did not want to run out of food again, we decided to buy some food to-go and secretly bring some salad bar with us. We felt embarrassed to bring salad with us since the salad was meant for dine-ins. Still, the bad experience of not being able to find food in the cold was so vivid that we still tried to put the salad in our to-go box. Surprisingly, when the waitress saw us packing food, she wasn't angry and offered a plastic bag! We were so grateful and asked if the restaurant is open at night. By knowing that the restaurant will be open till eight, we decided to come again for dinner!

晚上在吃飯前，我們造訪了著名的鐵礦場。比起礦場給人辛苦、勞累、工作環境糟糕的印象，Kiruna的鐵礦廠出奇的現代化。我們搭著乾淨新穎的大巴到地底下的礦場，參觀這礦場的歷史及現況，老實說參觀時完全讓我擺脫對礦工那種悲情的印象，他們的工作場所和所有瑞典辦公室一樣都有可以Fika(下午茶)的地方，簡直比我之前在101辦公的環境還棒。解說員說當地的鐵礦非常好，還邀請我們拿小塊的回去當紀念，他說就把這些紀念品當作退稅吧！

Just before dinner, we visited the iron mine which made Kiruna prosper. Compared to mines which usually leave people the impression of bad working conditions and environment, the iron mine in Kiruna is modern. We took a new bus to the underground where the mine is, and there was a lady introducing to us the history and the news of this mine. There working environment is the same as most Swedish workplaces--they got places to fika! The guide said the quality of the iron in Kiruna is really good and she invited us to take some small pieces back as souvenirs. Actually, she call these souvenirs tax rebates!

最後一天早上要趕火車，我們在去車站的路上順道參觀了Kiruna自己的木造教堂，這次有進去參觀。就在這樣靜謐莊嚴、散發著聖潔且微微的木頭香的氛圍中，我們告別了北極圈的第一站。

During the last day in Kiruna, we had to catch a train to Abisqo. Before going to the train station, we visited Kiruna kyrka, the wooden church in Kiruna. The church was open, and the interior decoration was simple but solemn. In the fragrance of wood, we had to say goodbye to our first stop in the Arctic circle.

[旅行] 波羅的海三小國行程安排分享 The Baltic Nations Itinerary Sharing

        2013年的9月30，我結束了在波羅的海三小國的旅程，也結束了九月幾乎一整個月在歐洲四處旅遊的夏末時光。爾後，一張到里加的便宜船票，讓我在十二月底再度踏上拉脫維亞及立陶宛的土地，當時已屆隆冬，雖然沒有下雪，天氣仍然嚴寒。在這兩趟旅程中，原本陌生的三個小國，開始變的輪廓清晰，從他們身上，我找到更多國家發展及國族想像的靈感。
        On September 30, 2013, my trip to the Baltic Nations as well as my one month travel around Europe has come to an end. The nice summer has ended as well. In Mid December, a cheap ferry ticket to Riga has brought me again to Latvia and Lithuania. It was Winter, and although it wasn't snowing, the weather was freezing. From these two trips, the Baltic Nations, once remote and familiar to me, have turned into vivid pictures in my mind. I learned from the three countries how a nation and a country went through hardships and how they should develop. They gave me inspiration when I reflect political issues in my own society.

行程分享 Itinerary Sharing ：
大多數的人選擇停留四至六天，由於我去了兩次，就決定把兩個行程合併，規劃成四至六天的行程。
Most trips in the Baltic Nations last for four to six days. Since I went there twice, I combined the two travel plans and made it into a six day plan.

第一天：立陶宛首都維爾紐斯市區觀光，推薦花半天的時間去Trakai水上城堡
                晚上搭乘夜車，隔天早晨抵達愛沙尼亞
1st day: Flight to Vilnius→City Sightseeing (Half day tour to Trakai Castle)→Night bus to Tallinn
第二天：愛沙尼亞首都塔林觀光 宿塔林
2nd day: Tallinn City Sightseeing
第三天：愛沙尼亞首都塔林觀光 宿塔林
3rd day: Tallinn City Sightseeing
第四天：早上搭乘巴士抵達拉脫維亞 拉脫維亞首都里加觀光 宿里加
4th day: Morning bus to Riga
第五天：拉脫維亞首都里加觀光 搭乘巴士前往Šiauliai，參觀十字架山 宿Šiauliai
5th day: Bus to Šiauliai→Hill of Crosses
             參考 [旅行] 寒風颯颯 十字架山 Hill of Crosses (Šiauliai, Lithuania)
第六天：搭乘火車回到立陶宛首都維爾紐斯市區觀光
6th day: Train back to Vilnius→City Sightseeing

交通工具 Transportation：
我們選擇搭乘 Simple Express 建議在網路上先訂好票，可以線上刷卡，把票印出，搭乘時記得攜帶護照，有時會檢查。Simple Express價格實惠，巴士相當新，坐起來很舒服。
We booked our bus tickets from Simple Express. We booked our tickets and paid by card in advance online. Remember to print the tickets and bring your passport with you. They might need to check it on board. Simple Express has relatively good price, and the bus ride was comfortable.
從Šiauliai回到維爾紐斯那一段，我搭乘立陶宛國鐵，無法線上訂票，只能到現場，記得先查好時刻表。
We took train from Šiauliai to Vilnius. Online booking is unavailable, and the tickets should be bought at the train station counter. Be sure to check the time tables.
當時因為瑞典飛立陶宛的機票比較便宜，所以我選擇由立陶宛進出，也有人買兩張單程票從兩國進出。從斯德哥爾摩到里加及塔琳都有船可搭，湊滿四個人相當便宜。我們搭乘的是Tallink Silja，記得在下訂時要選Round Trip，在選擇要單程還是來回，不要選成Cruise。記得要在開船前三十分鐘到達，以免無法上船。
I chose to start and end my trip in Vilnius because the flight tickets were cheaper. However, there are some travelers that bought two one-way tickets, which allows them to arrive and depart from different places. There are ferries that go from Stockholm to Riga and Tallinn, which may be quite cheap if four travelers share a room. The ferry I took was Tallink Silja. Tickets should be booked and printed online in advance. Remember to choose Round trip and then select one-way or round trip. Do not choose the cruise tab. Be sure to arrive 30 minutes before departure.

住宿 Accommodation：
我們選擇用Booking.com，大推里加Guesthouse Jakob Lenz及Šiauliai的Litrada Apartments
Litrada Apartments 評價 [旅行] 立陶宛 Šiauliai 超值住宿 Litrada Apartments
We used Booking.com to book our accommodation. Our experience in staying in Guesthouse Jakob Lenz, Riga, and Litrada Apartments, Šiauliai, were nice.

[旅行] 寒風颯颯 十字架山 Hill of Crosses (Šiauliai, Lithuania)

       超過十萬座十字架，堆起來就像一座山。在立陶宛小鎮Šiauliai，十字架山遠近馳名。其實十字架山不在小鎮上，要過去需要搭公車，在市中心公車站的十二號月台往Joniškis方向，時刻表可在巴士站索取，下車後約要再走2公里路左右。

        Tens of thousands of crosses pile up as a hill. Šiauliai, a small town in Lithuania, is famous for the Hill of Crosses. In fact, the hill is not located in the town but 12 km away from the town. Travelers will need to take the bus bound for Joniškis and get off at Domantai. From there, you walk 2 km to the hill.

※住宿推薦 [旅行] 立陶宛 Šiauliai 超值住宿 Litrada Apartments

The way to Hill of Crosses

        那天我沒有安排什麼行程，小鎮上也沒什麼好逛，只有一間商場。一大早就搭上公車，司機雖然不會說英文，但是看到遊客就比了個十字，我們點頭，他便好心的提醒我們下車。下了車之後，沿著指示還要走兩公里，幸好沿路沒什麼車，又有大樹，像是在健行。

        I didn't have any plans that day in Šiauliai. The city was small and there was only one shopping mall. I took the bus to hill of crosses in the morning. Though the driver didn't know English, he made a cross with his fingers when he saw us and we replied with a nod. He then reminded us to get off when we arrived at Domantai. After we got off, there were signs along the way that guide us to the Hill of Crosses. The were few cars on the roads, and the 2 km to our destination was like hiking.

        遠遠的看到了十字架堆，但遠看無法感受到壯觀，不過可以先看到旅遊中心，中心內有紀念品和自動販賣機，雖然幾乎全世界的景點都有，但因為這裡的物價真的比瑞典低太多了，我們忍不住買了一些。等到愈走愈近，就能感受到十萬座十字架的壯觀。十字架山的源起有很多說法。據說一開始是有人放了幾座十字架紀念1831年起義義士的犧牲，爾後，愈來愈多人來放上十字架，到了1990年已經有55,000座，如今更達十萬座。

        On the way to the hill, I can see the pile of crosses from a distance, but could not feel the magnificence until I reached it. However, I saw the tourist information center on the way and it sold some typical tourist stuff. The price in Lithuania was much lower than in Sweden, so I purchased some souvenirs.
        The origin of the Hill of Crosses is debated. Some say there were first some crosses to memorize the uprising during 1831. From then on, more and more people come to place crosses. To 1990, there were 55,000 crosses and until now, there are over 100,000.

        立陶宛，乃至於波羅地海三小國，和台灣一般，都是命運多舛的國度。波羅地海三小國在蘇聯垮台前，都活在鐵幕之中，反抗軍是游擊隊，而對手是強大的蘇聯，從來就不會有勝算，就像台灣過去反抗任何統治者般。在冬至的早晨，沒有什麼遊客，我的眼前、四周、腳邊都是滿滿的十字架，有的十字架上，還掛著小十字架，上面也插了小小十字架。那天是難得的晴天，風不大，卻有些寒冷，在十字架山的最中央，有個播放不知名樂曲的錄音機，或許是聖歌，就像我們播放佛經一樣，但我聽來並沒有感受到平靜，只有無限淒涼。

        Lithuania, like the other Baltic countries and like Taiwan, was ill-fated in history. The Baltic Nations were under the iron curtain before the Soviet Union collapsed. Facing such tense oppression, the rebels could never win. I visited the Hill of Crosses during the morning of winter solstice. There were barely any tourists. Surrounding me were only crosses, a massive number of crosses. Some Large crosses have small ones hung on them or standing on them. The weather that day was nice and the wind was mild, but I felt a bit chilly. In the middle of the hill, there was a recorder playing a anonymous song that sounded like a hymn. The song was meant to be peaceful, but I only had a strong feeling of desolation.

        十字架山不同於歷史博物館，很多十字架沒有記載、沒有年代也沒有碑文。留下十字架的人沒有簽名，無法現身說法，更別說留下錄影檔。沒有權威的學者在旁留下他的分析或論述。留下十字架是太私人的情感，遊客無從猜測動機。你無法知道你眼前的十字架是紀念什麼、祈求什麼，或者很多時候，可能只是遊客的到此一遊。沒錯，旁邊有三個小攤販，一個小的十字架才10元台幣，任何人都可以買一個插在山上。任何人都可以去堆積那座山，當然，你不需要門票就能進入這座山。

        Unlike museums, the hill of crosses lack historical records for the crosses. Those who left the crosses there did not sign nor could they come and say anything about there purpose. There were no guides or scholars that could analyze or explain. Maybe leaving a cross was too personal and emotional for tourists to understand. Was it for memorization? Was it for prayers? Was it for fun? Yeah, for fun. It costs less than one dollar to but a cross from one of the vendors beside to hill. Anyone can be one of the creators of the hill.

        冬至特別早天黑，那天晚上，我們趕搭最後一班火車往首都Vilnius。火車站不在市中心，我們在漆黑的夜裡趕路到車站，沿途聖誕市集沒什麼人，我感受不到迎接聖誕節的溫馨，不知道是因為十字架山讓人心情沉重還是天太早黑？或許，也可能只是路邊沒融的雪被人踩得太髒，抑或是我沒有在市集看到可愛的聖誕老人或是麋鹿。

        The sky darkened early on winter solstice. That night, we took the last train back to Vilnius. The station was not in the city center and we had to walk on the dark streets to find our way. The Christmas markets on the streets were almost empty. We couldn't feel a bit of warmth for Christmas maybe because of the crosses or because of the darkness. Maybe it was only because the snow on the streets were dirty or because I didn't see any cute reindeers in the markets.

        火車站寬敞明亮，旁邊有間小雜貨店，冬至沒有湯圓，我們在那買了微波的披薩和漢堡當晚餐。「火車來了！」先是聽到鐵軌隆隆摩擦聲，往首都Vilnius的火車緩緩進站，是真的很緩慢，車身是深藍的，在深夜裡都看得出褪色嚴重。此時，所有旅客從車站中走出來，在各節車廂的車門前排隊。正當我不明所以，看到每節車廂的門被推開，走出挽著髮髻穿著深藍袍子的奶奶，他們緩緩走下階梯，彷彿來自上個世紀。老奶奶對著車門前排隊的旅客一一驗票，還貼心的問你要茶或咖啡。

        The train station was rather bright and spacious. There was a small vendor beside the station. I didn't have traditional rice balls on winter solstice but rather bought some microwave pizza and burgers from the vendor.
        "Here comes the train!" I heard the thundering sound from the railroad track. The train bound for Vilnius has slowly arrived. The train was painted blue, but I could tell the color had faded even in the dark. That moment, all the travelers in the station walked out and started lining up in front of each carriage. I was confused at first and then I saw the door in each carriage being opened and there walked out old ladies in long dark blue robes. When they slowly moved down from the stair case, they seem to be walking out from the previous century. Those old ladies started to check the tickets one by one and politely ask if you want tea or coffee.

        火車在隆隆聲開走，遠離燈火通明的車站。我睜大眼睛，看向窗外，想看清楚，不過天太黑了，沒有一點燈，不知道究竟是森林還是城市。一幕幕的黑影在我的窗外後退，彷彿快轉的歷史紀錄片無法停格，而我真的懷疑自己是不是坐上開往前蘇聯的火車。會不會我一覺醒來發現自己在西伯利亞？那裏還有勞改營嗎？

        The train slowly left the station with a roaring sound. I tried to look out the window, but it was too dark. Without any light, I couldn't tell whether we were passing by a forest or a city. Darkness beside me was moving backwards at a fast pace. It felt like a non-stop fast-forward history documentary and I really doubt if I was on the train to the Soviet Union. Will I end up in Siberia after I wake up? Are there still labor camps?

        我沒有尖叫。兩個小時後，我抵達了Vilnius。踩在骯髒的雪上，寒風颯颯。在接近午夜裡，我遇到了熱情的民宿主人，住進了溫馨又平價的旅店，一夜好眠。

        We did not scream. Two hours later, we arrived at Vilnius. Walking on the dirty snow, the wind was howling. We met our hostel host near midnight and we arrived at a cozy room. We had a good night's sleep.

後記：十字架山真的是我心中數一數二的景點。他有歷史感，卻不是歷史博物館。他有藝術感，卻不是美術館。他是人造的，卻不屬於任何人，但又屬於所有人。有點悲傷，卻很壯觀。

The Hill of crosses was one of my favorite sights. It was historical but was not a history museum. It was artistic but not an art museum. It was man made, but it does not belong to anyone. It belongs to everyone. It brought sorrow but it was also magnificent.